Jul 09 15

Since we didn’t sleep the night before (in the plane on the way from Europe to Africa) we enjoyed a good night’s rest in a cosy bed even more. Using the extra blanket – as in the US they’re called comforter in Namibia – we slept well and it was snugly warm.

So, we get up at 8 and already now what little luggage we brought to Namibia is spread chaotically around our room. This bothers me a little…the safari hasn’t even started and already certain items seem to have gone missing. Frantically I try to put everything back to a sensible place in our luggage, constantly assessing the expected periodicity of use of the item.

After a quick breakfast we’re picked up by our guides Stefan & Marga in order to run the last errands in Windhoek before we’re off for the wilderness. We shop at a large US-style supermarket located inside a mall in the center of Windhoek. The goods at display all look tasty but it’s hard to tell for us what we really need as we don’t know what our guides already bought for us. Food management during our safari is basically their responsibility. To be on the safe side we buy 20l of water per person in large 4l containers. Since the sleeping bags that came with the Land Rover’s camping equipment really don’t look like their made for temperatures below 10°C we also buy some extra blankets for our roof-top tent beds. Also, since we didn’t bring too much cash to Namibia (advise by travel agency) we try to withdraw cash from the ATM machines in the mall. We have to try out a few until we find one that is willing to accept our Maestro cards AND sputter out cash.

While loading our Land Rovers I realize that Akiko and I really travel light. Compared to the other two cars ours is half empty. I realize that we really didn’t bring a lot of luggage, indeed. Again I run through my mental packing list to see if I can come with items we forgot at home. I can’t and, therefore, I try to calm down.

Then, finally, we hit the road and head north towards Waterberg Plateau. I quickly get used to the Land Rover and to driving on the left side of the road. At a large BP gas station on the outskirts of Windhoek we have the Land Rovers checked for water, oil, gas, and tire pressure.

Last check at the gas station before leaving civilisation as we know behind for a while

Last check at the gas station before leaving civilisation as we know behind for a while

In Okahanja, the next major village, we make a brief stop. There’s a nice craft market, many people hang around aimlessly. I wonder what they’re up to all day long. I feel watched and this makes me uncomfortable, ill at ease. Are we safe here? Getting used to Africa isn’t easy in the beginning…
At a nice liquor store (bottle store) we buy beer for Akiko and soda for me. Again, I notice that we buy less than the others in our party. What’s wrong with us?

Along the road from Okahanja to Waterberg we encounter the first “wild” animals: special species of sheep, baboos, small wardhogs, and a bush bock.

Waterberg plateau

Waterberg plateau

The camp at Waterberg is neat and clean and we’re surprised about the sanitation. The camp ground might as well be somewhere in Europe. When Marga tells us that all the other camps on our route will be much less “luxurious” I wonder what to make of that comment. Is she joking? Is she trying to scare us? Or is she simply trying to set our expectations straight? I’m sure I’ll find out soon enough.
When we put up our roof tent for the first time we realize that whoever prepared the car and its camping equipment for us packed a ladder extension that doesn’t fit the ladder properly. I get angry that this anonymous African – and Africans in general – and his sloppy work. Not that it couldn’t happen elsewhere in the world… I get loud, hectic, and also a bit frustrated since also the tent itself isn’t as expected. The fact that Stefan’s Land Rover’s ladder extension doesn’t fit either doesn’t exactly improve my mood. After some hammering and bending I manage to make them both fit, though. Meanwhile Stefan & Marga prepared dinner and my mood curve points skywards sharply :-) Life is good now and I apologize to Akiko for my behavior.

Namibia 2009 photos

Jul 09 14

Windhoek airport is deserted when we arrive. Besides our airplane we only see an Air Namibia jet and a small propeller plane. Although all immigration boths are “on service” the formalities take time – welcome to Africa. It’s our first trip to this continent and we have to get used to the TIA (“this is Africa…”, shrug) feeling.

We’re supposed to get picked up by a Bushlore agent (the car rental company), but there’s no one waiting for us. To be frank, we halve expected that. So, after a while we call them, they call back and another 30min later the agent arrives. We’re not quite sure which of the various excuses are in fact true.

The agent drives us to the Okavango guest house where we’ll pick up our Land Rover and where we’ll spend the first night. The first impression matches the image we got by looking at their website. Everything is nice, neat and clean. Of course, it’s cold to use the outdoor pool. After all it’s winter in Africa. Our room is also cold; too cold to feel comfortable and the air condition/heater is only able to produce cold air. We’re happy about the extra blankets in the closet.

At the guest house we also meet the other Swiss couple who booked the same self-drive safari tour as we did. We’re immediately taken to Thomas and Sandra, they seem very nice and considerate and are only a few years older than we are. We’re relieved! It’s the first time we ever booked a guided tour. No knowing the guides and the other folks did bother us slightly and we just hoped to meet likable people.

Sandra and Akiko chat and enjoy the last warming rays of sunshine as the sun sets

Sandra and Akiko chat and enjoy the last warming rays of sunshine as the sun sets. Yes, the light is intense in Africa.

Then we finally take over our Land Rovers from the agent. He seems somewhat in a hurry and we’re a bit overwhelmed by all the new impressions. We make a crucial mistake. Since both Land Rovers are apparently exactly alike (according to the agent) he only shows and explains to us the camping equipment in one care exemplarily. That way for example we don’t notice that on one car the extension for the roof-top tent ladder doesn’t fit the ladder. Ouchh… However, we’re surprised how “complete” the camping equipment is. There’s even a first-aid kit that seems reasonably well equipped. Despite the tiredness, we couldn’t sleep on the night flight from Europe to Namibia, we’re full of beans. The anticipation is huge.

After 5pm a Kuoni (tour operator) representative stops by and apologizes for the troubles we had with the Bushlore agent at the airport. Also, he brings more documents and brochures with information about Namibia. Most of it is a copy of what we’ve already got. Despite that, we think it’s a nice touch that he came by to make sure the guests got to their accommodation safely.

Finally, we also meet the guides that Kuoni hired for this tour: Stefan & Marga from Germany and South Africa respectively. They run their own little travel agency Active-Reisen in Germany and they are Africa experts. Also to them we’re taken immediately. We’re totally happy and are convinced that this small party of 6 will function well.

Stefan & Marga take us to Joe’s Beerhouse for dinner. This, however, doesn’t make me too happy as this restaurant/bar is mentioned in every travel book which makes it less appealing for me. Nonetheless, the sun sets close to 6pm, it’s getting really cold and we’re off to the Beerhouse – not knowing that it’s more or less an open-air restaurant. Despite my reservations I’m pleasantly surprised by the Beerhouse. The decoration really is interesting and the food on our neighbor’s plates looks and smells delicious. Pity it doesn’t hold up to it…it certainly doesn’t help that the food gets cold so quickly.

Namibia 2009 photos